Mei Mei RADO 梅玫
Bard Graduate Center: Decorative Arts, Design History, Material Culture 巴德裝飾藝術研究院

Textiles and Early Modern Global Exchanges: European Silks and Tapestries in the Qing Palaces
紡織品與現代早期的全球交流:清宮中的歐洲絲綢和掛毯

Focusing on two recent special exhibitions at the Metropolitan Museum of Art on which I have worked-Interwoven Globe: The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500-1800 (2013) and China: Through the Looking Glass (2015), my talk will provide an in-depth examination on the themes of global intercultural exchanges in textile and fashion exhibitions. These two landmark exhibitions reflected the latest academic trend and exemplified the most innovative curatorial approaches to textiles and fashion, the presentations and studies of which remain relatively marginal in museums and in the academic field of art history.

While introducing the curatorial planning, objects, gallery designs, and audience's experiences associated with these two exhibitions, I will probe a series of questions, such as, how did these exhibitions enrich the traditional curatorial approaches with an interdisciplinary and cross-cultural one, and why is this approach particularly relevant to textile and fashion history? How was China represented in these exhibitions and how a global perspective of China offers new analytical angles to Chinese art? How do the exhibition designs for textiles and fashion find a balance in meeting conservation requirements, displaying the objects' artistic quality and technical virtuosity, and presenting theoretical narratives? In the end of my talk, I will also briefly address some criticism and controversies on the transcultural themes in fashion and textile exhibitions, especially in the American context, with an aim to triggering further discussions on how museums handle culturally sensitive issues.

本篇報告將圍繞大都會博物館的兩個特展──《交織的地球:全球紡織品貿易,1500-1800》(2013)和《中國:鏡花水月》(2015)──深入探討近年來織品與服飾展覽中的全球文化交流主題。我本人曾參與這兩個展覽的研究工作,對此有充分的了解。紡織品和服飾在綜合性博物館的陳列中和藝術史的學術領域都比較邊緣化。這兩個里程碑式的展覽反映了紡織服飾史最新的研究動態,並代表著新穎的策展思路。

本篇報告在介紹策展、展品、展覽設計、觀眾互動等方面的同時,將討論一系列的問題,例如:這些展覽如何拓展了傳統的策展思路,引進跨學科和跨文化的視角?為何這種視角與紡織服飾史特別相關?中國在這些展覽中是如何被呈現的?全球視野對探討中國藝術提供了什麼新的分析角度?紡織、服飾史的展覽設計如何在文物保護、凸顯展品的藝術性和工藝、以及理論陳述三者之間達到平衡?在報告的最後,我將簡要討論針對跨文化織品、服飾展的一些批評和分歧,尤其在美國的文化語境下,引發大家思考博物館如何處理敏感性文化主題這一問題。